It is time for a good ol’ Walkie. That’s what we thought, anyway, with little consideration of two facts: 1, that neither of us had really broken in our new hiking boots, and 2, nor had we had completed a hike since Easter 2024. That’s 8 months to have forgotten what the weight of a backpack does to your perceived fitness (which was at an all time low, post Christmas feasting). Yet there we were, hyped as hell to get on a trail and explore the Chilean wilderness.
This was in the last post, but I feel like it’s important to reiterate – CONAF are great, but not super reliable. A lot of hiking information is difficult to find – in Chile and, as we have found out, throughout all of South America. When we emailed CONAF about the state of the Villarrica Traverse, they didn’t reply for 4 days (we were halfway through the hike!) and they sent me a link to a non-official description of the track, on WikiExplora (http://www.wikiexplora.com/ENG:Villarrica_Traverse). Thankfully, there was a kind local tour guide who answered a number of our questions on Whatsapp. We also got a little bit of information from the tourist office. There were a few key points to note:
- The track only opened on the 4th of January, and we started hiking on the 7th Jan. The track was pretty clear overall, but there was reasonable treefall in all the forested sections, which sometimes made our pace very slow.
- Most of the waterways rely on snowmelt, so the water situation can be variable, and later in summer it can be tough to get enough water (specifically on the first day)
- Make sure you have a filter too – because it’s an active volcano, the waterways can have icky particulates in them.
In general, WikiExplora is your best resource for information on hiking in Chile, and some other parts of South America. AllTrails tends to be less current. Our other go-to has been WikiLoc, which is often updated with photos by locals and local guides.
Part of the inspiration for this blog came through on this very hike – there was so little information! Coming from Aotearoa, where every trail, campsite and hut is detailed, marked, rated, mapped, and maintained by the Department of Conservation – hoo-ee, this was a shock to our privileged hiking expectations. We knew it should take 5 days, and that there were volcanoes to look at. We hardly knew anything else!
Click here to take you to short and sweet that summarizes this blog post.
Tell me everything:
Getting There:
This trek started with us being so damn lucky. We woke up with our bags already packed, had a quick breakfast and were ready to go at 7am or so. Our plan was to call an Uber – we had talked to a few of the tour companies running expeditions up Volcano Villarrica, who had offered us seats in their vans (leaving at 6am!), for 10k per person. When we checked Uber the day before, we saw we could get one for just 10K CLP – and we were feeling budget-y, so we decided, confidently, that an Uber at 7am was a good idea. Open up the app and – what do we have? – no Ubers in Pucon – at all! Several minutes of panicked waiting ensued, until we got a driver – who accepted the ride from Villarrica no less. An insane spot of good luck. The lad had to drive 30 minutes along the lake just to pick us up, before taking us 25 minutes up a dusty, gravel road for his first drive of the day. Plus, he had to wait for us for 5 minutes while we paid out park entrance fees (10400CLP each) and signed in for the trail (there was someone standing at the Guarderia waving cars over, it’s hard to miss). It was a wee car (imagine a tiny Suzuki Swift), too, so we felt every bump along the way. We were so grateful (and felt a little guilty), so we also tipped the guy in cash. Eventful as it was, we had arrived at the ski lodge, and were ready to hike!
Day 1: Volcano Villarrica Ski Lodge to Estero Ñilfe. (4-7 hours)
At this time of year, the ski lodge is used by mountain bikers, testing out the downhill trails. Another previously unknown, not very fun fact – the actual trail for the Villarrica Traverse starts another 3km uphill along a very boring dirt road. The road is reserved for ski-lodge staff. There’s an option to take the ski-lift, but this was a budget-friendly day – we were not paying for none of that!
So we began to trudge, packs weighted and boots poorly fitted. And then – another stroke of good luck. Old mate from the ski lodge (who we’d asked for directions) pulled up in his ute and urged us into the car. He struck up a friendly conversation in English, obviously taking pity on the two gringos who had no idea how long this road would actually take to trek along (at least an hour). Even in the ute, it took us another 5 minutes (uphill!) to reach the start of the trek – which starts in a South Westerly direction. We left him with a flurry of thank-yous, before starting our Traverse in earnest.
We should preface the remainder of this walk: we had spectacular weather. It was always sunny, with enough wind to keep us cool, but not so much to be a pain in the arse. Another important note for this hike – most of the signs have conflicting distances. A reliable GPS should give you the confidence you need. We were lacking on this front. We bought a second-hand GPS in Aotearoa before we left, but never really tested it out on the trail. Within an hour of starting the trail, it stopped working. An absolute classic! But we were already on the trail, and we were committed to making this hike work out.
The first real section of the track rolls around the foothills of Volcano Villarrica. There are plenty of amazing rock formations to admire, and sections where you can see the differences in lava flows. The scenery differs between harsh rock and wildflowers, always with views down the mountain into the surrounding lakes. Eventually, after moving through some short lengua forest, we arrived at a section which drops from a lightly forested cliff into a flat sandy ravine. The track took us up and across the valley slightly, onto some more volcanic rocks, where there was a lively stream – this looked like a good place to refill. The track then rose up the other side into more forest. Within 30 minutes or so, we arrived at the Challupan Lagunas, which was marked as the first campsite on the map we were given. The lagunas are all quite stagnant and icky, so the water would definitely need filtering. Although the shelter of the trees was nice, we decided to keep going to find a better campsite.
The next ‘water’ on our map was another stagnant non-event, much to our disappointment, but the Estero Ñilfe was running rapid in the next valley along, so we stopped for the night, pretty exhausted and ready to have a rinse and relax. This was probably about an hour along from the Lagunas, and is a wonderful peaceful place, with a great view and the perfect angles to watch the sunset! If you want to go further, there are opportunities to camp further along, but stock up on reasonable quality water at Ñilfe.
Day 2: Estero Ñilfe to near the CONAF Guarderia (6-8 hours)
This day starts again with more volcanic walking – called the “Valle del Fuego”, the valley of fire. It sounds like more of the same, but the changing angles of Volcano Villarrica to your left and the valleys and lakes far to your right really are spectacular, and will keep you entertained for hours. The track eventually started winding through steeper hills with sheer drops, past summer flowers of reds and orange filled with buzzing bees. At the top of this section, you can turn off for a few minutes to the Mirador Los Volcanes, but the main track turns to the right and begins a steep downhill to the Rio Pichillancahue. This Mirador is accessible from the road, so we met a few families puffing their way up the hill on an afternoon dayhike.
Our experience of this next section was, to be frank, not fun. Descending into the Rio Pichillancahue almost made Emma cry. The track is very steep (at this point we didn’t have poles yet – rookies), and we were still carrying extra water ‘just in case’. Being heavy going downhill equates to some very sore knees.
Secondly, the bottom of this descent was marked clearly on two maps as the next campsite. But there are massive signs that clearly say “no camping”. Like, what??? So Rio Pichillancahue is a good place to restock water before continuing on.
Finally, this next section of track is pretty weird walking. Coming out of the ‘no camping’ area by the river, turn left to continue along a rutted out 4×4 track. This track winds up the hill, towards a turnoff for the Pichillancahue Glacier (we met some guys earlier who had all the gear to walk on the glacier – pretty cool stuff). Continue following the road up to the highpoint, and then back down the other side of the hill. Partway down, there’s a sign that says “Chinay Campsite”, essentially on the roadside, with average access to the water and no real grass to pitch your tent, just some dirt that has slightly less gravel. Also weird. We continued on.
Eventually, the track meets up with the river properly, and the water is easy to dip into. Another few hundred meters along is the CONAF Guarderia. We stopped as soon as we found the river, setting up our tent in what was essentially a parking lot (remember, some of us were very close to tears a couple of hours earlier). If you continue past Guarderia, you’ll cross the track over a small bridge, and there is a much nicer spot to camp in a grassy area with great water access. We saw another tent there the next morning.
Day 3: CONAF Guarderia to Laguna Azul (6-8 hours)
Day 3 is the toughest day, with the most elevation gain. We first checked in at the Guarderia. He checked our passes, gave us some guidance on the track, and sent us on our way. “On our way” really meant “sent us up the hill”. The day begins with 3 hours of ascent, mostly switchbacks, rising through a forest of Aracuanias. We took our time enjoying the views and taking breathers. Eventually you rise above the treeline and rise to a high point, where you can enjoy 360 degree views of your surrounds, including views of all of the volcanoes! There were a few wind-walls set up when we were here, so this does seem like a place you could camp if the wind is calm enough. We enjoyed the views here for a while, but the horseflies here were real arseholes, so we didn’t stay too long.
The descent from the viewpoint takes you through some scraggly, low-hanging lengua forest. There are equal opportunities to smack your head (Awal) and trip over roots (Emma), so take care. Eventually, you descend into some thicker forest, which is quite beautiful but unfortunately the high quantity of snowfall in the area means there is a lot of treefall. The track is not super well maintained, so expect this section to be slow-going, with a lot of rerouting and clambering over branches to keep you entertained. After a dip, where another track meets up from the road end, you’ll start climbing again. Tricked! The first three hours up didn’t actually take you to the highpoint on the track, but now you will climb up to it. Another 30-60 minutes will take you through to the edge of the forest, and then you will see the track disappearing off into the distance, on a saddle next to volcano Quetrillipan.
When we completed this section, there was plenty of snow melt. The scenery is rugged and stunning. The mounds of snow are melting into rivers into water, and plenty of them make waterfalls that fill the valley. The section is mostly rock and scree, so expect some scrambling amongst the snow walking. During the last 400m of ascent, take regular breaks to look back across the valley. Once you near the top, check your GPS again to ensure you’re heading in the correct direction, slightly to the left. The track then curves down and to the right, eventually giving you a gorgeous view of your campsite. If you’ve got snow in the right places, this is an excellent opportunity to enjoy some sledding on your ass – it’s way more efficient and wayyyyyy more fun!
From the top, it should only be about 30 minutes or so descending into Laguna Azul. Enjoy the views of the laguna and the valleys stretching out from the foot of the mountain as you walk. Once at the base, pick your camping spot amongst the small grouping of trees or pick one right on the beachfront. Take a well deserved swim and relax in the best camping spot on the track!
Note that this campsite can be accessed from the road, so it may be busy on weekends, and unfortunately there was quite a bit of rubbish there when we visited 🙁
You can actually summit the Quetrupillán volcano if you so wish, either for a magically sunrise or just for bragging rights. Instead of going all the way to Laguna Azul, pick a camping spot of your pleasure to prepare for your ascent the next morning. The peak sits at 2370m.
Day 4 – Laguna Azul to Laguna Avutardas (5-6 hours)
This day will let you traverse some very cool trail through scree and sand valleys. There is really no shelter for most of this day, so ensure you have lots of water.
The track initially almost doubles back on itself – you may have been able to see it coming into Laguna Azul the day before. Pick your way through the volcanic rock field until you reach the well marked trail – and don’t rip any of your clothes in the process! Your first viewpoint will be Laguna Blanca, a milky white lagoon made so by the chemicals in the water. There’s a track that goes to the lakeside, but there’s a small rise you can run up, just as you come over the hill and first view the laguna. We’d recommend doing that, it’s a pretty good viewpoint!
Whichever method you decide to take, the track winds for some hours into real mountain valleys. It’s very dry and barren here. At some point, the track technically crosses the border from Chile to Argentina and back again, although it’s not marked! The track in general is a bit sparsely marked here, and with large sections of snow it can be difficult to see any marked path. Keep an eye on your GPS.
Eventually, the scree and the sand will stop, and you’ll have a view of your next couple of hours of descent – first into a valley of scrubby alpine grasses and lengua, and further afield into a humid forest. This is a great place to take lunch, and appreciate the sound of snowmelt and views of the trees and rugged rock formations that make up this next valley.
Because of the snowmelt, the initial section can be quite boggy. Take care where you put your feet, and generally prepare to get a little wet. As the track crosses this wetland and begins to descend into forest, the same applies – the track basically follows a big slip down into the valley, and the soil is full of clay. The red colour is a lovely contrast in photos, but for walking makes a big slippery mess. As you descend, you’ll be able to see your next camping destination – Laguna Avutardas. Check your GPS regularly as you descend – there was one grassy clearing where we missed the track direction, and ended up confused for 15 minutes or so.
The Laguna Avutardas Camping area is a little back from the beach, although it’s possible to camp on the beach if you want to be close to the water. The lake is shallow, but certainly swimmable – a lovely end to another day on the trail.
Day 5: Laguna Avutardas to the highway at Mirador Parque Villarrica (3-5 hours)
The final day is short on paper, but as with all the forested trails you’ve been on in this hike, will be filled with treefall. There’s a lot of rerouting and clambering on this day, so the track time can be very variable. We found sections quite boggy too, so we had some careful stepping. It’s not hard – there’s not too much descent – but it is slow going for the first couple of hours.
The track will eventually transform from trail to a dusty 4WD track, which you will follow for another 30-60 minutes before arriving at a suspicious, unmarked gate. Open it and finish the track! We didn’t, and assumed that it was part of the ‘do not pass fence’. Instead, we turned right and hiked uphill (a very, very steep hill) for about 15 minutes before the trail disappeared. The trail was, in fact, made by cows. It was several minutes more of map checking, scrambling and swearing before we eventually descended again, opened that damn gate and completed the Villarrica Traverse. Now all we had to do was figure out how to get back to Pucon.
Getting Out
This trek also ended with us being very lucky. Having taken our little detour, we were pretty over it! There’s a carpark where the track finishes, and a little cafe. It was a Sunday, so there were several people arriving to begin their day hikes – but not many people going in the other direction, as the road only comes in from Argentina. We sought advice from the staff at the Villarrica Traverse Cafe, who were super helpful and kind, offering us water and WiFi. Unfortunately, the advice was that 1) the bus from Puesco Bajo doesn’t run on a Sunday 2) the track running next to the road was closed, so we were definitely going to have to trek to Puesco Bajo via the road. Thankfully, the track finishes at a high point, so the trek to Puesco Bajo is all downhill. If you want to chill or can’t get a hitch, there are hostels in Puesco Bajo, or there’s a CONAF campsite (according to our map – which was wrong in all other regards, so take this with a grain of salt).
We were lucky enough to grab a hitch with a couple of Argentinians within about 20 minutes. They’d come across the border for their Sunday shopping (which really shows you how crazy the economy is in Argentina!). There were actually a couple of girls who were already in their car, hitching, and they kindly jumped out for us. We rode with them all the way back to Pucon, which is about an hour’s drive. We’re sure they were very friendly people, but our Spanish was still terrible at this point, and the Argentinian accent really is something different! So it was a bit of a quiet ride.
The GPS Drama
So, we’ve got an ETrex25 Garmin. It must be about 15 years old. On the track, it suddenly wouldn’t turn on anymore. Stressssss. Since then, we guess because we were stress-pressing it so much, the power button has collapsed in – the silicone is too old, and it cracked and crinkled until it couldn’t take anymore. This means that this lovely, rugged model is no longer waterproof. Whoops. Also the only way to turn it on is with a Q-Tip. Difficult with gloves! Anyway, it turns out that the issue was the SD card. If the SD card isn’t sitting absolutely correctly in its slot (and it doesn’t love to sit straight), the misconnection causes the Garmin to freeze. Because it doesn’t sit very well, it’s really easy to mess up the connection when changing the batteries!
We’re not sure if there’s anyone who’s had the same issues, but this is a good lesson to always have a backup GPS – or maybe to test your gear properly first…
Keep it Short & Sweet:
- Trail type: One way
- Distance: 73km
- Elevation:
- Time: 4-6 days
- Day 1: Volcano Villarrica Ski Lodge to Estero Ñilfe.
- Day 2: Estero Ñilfe to near the CONAF Guarderia
- Day 3: CONAF Guarderia to Laguna Azul (the best campsite on the trail!)
- Day 4: Laguna Azul to Laguna Avutardas (attempt Volcan Quetrupillán summit on this day)
- Day 5: Laguna Avutardas to the highway at Mirador Parque Villarrica
- Important checks:
- State of the waterways
- GPS
- Amount of snow/is the track open
- Entry fee: 10800CLP
- Camping fee: free
- Facilities: None (complete camping kit, cooking kit and pooping kit are essential)
- Getting there: 10000CLP pp with a tour company ascending Volcano Villarrica (6am start); call an uber from town (~10000CLP); hitch hike (free)
- Getting back to Pucon: Hitch hike (free) or catch the bus from Puesco Bajo (it does not run on Sundays, and is ~7km from the end of the trail)
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